For twenty years, Koba in Fitzrovia has been a London dining institution, a place where the sizzle of tabletop grills and the aroma of Korean barbecue filled the air. But restaurants, like cities, evolve. And Koba, under the continued vision of Linda Lee, has recently undergone a significant transformation, ditching the hot plates and dark wood for a lighter, more modern aesthetic. The question, naturally, is whether this bold move—ripping up the rulebook after two decades—will pay off. The answer, judging by the enduring appeal of its signature dishes and a renewed focus on delicate flavors, appears to be a resounding yes.
The enduring image for many, myself included, isn’t of the grilling, but of the finale: a warm, fresh, sugary bean paste doughnut served with a pot of buckwheat tea. It’s a simple pleasure, a moment of pure bliss against the backdrop of a typically grey London day. That doughnut, filled with the pleasantly claggy, almost nutty sweetness of adzuki bean paste, remains a cornerstone of the Koba experience, a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to comforting, expertly crafted food.
A New Aesthetic, A Familiar Heart
The revamp at Koba isn’t merely cosmetic. The black tables, dangling extraction vents, and heavy dark wood have been replaced with a wabi sabi colour palette—pale, dreamy, and, in places, even twinkly. This Japanese aesthetic, embracing imperfection and transience, lends a sense of calm and sophistication to the dining room. But the change isn’t just about looks. It’s about a shift in focus, a refinement of the menu, and a willingness to embrace new culinary directions.
Small, elegant snacks and starters now capture center stage. Deep-fried cuttlefish, neat jeon (shrimp and vegetable pancakes), and a particularly lovely yook hwei (raw beef with pear, seaweed, and egg yolk) are all highlights. These dishes arrive with a generous serving of banchan—a colorful array of Korean side dishes, including various types of kimchi, beansprouts, and spicy cucumbers.
The Grill’s Legacy, and a New Focus on Expertise
While the tabletop grills are largely gone, the spirit of Koba’s barbecue remains. The dak galbi (barbecue chicken), marinated in a heady blend of gochujang paste, chili, and garlic, is still a standout. Lee wisely recognized that, for dishes like this, letting an expert take the reins yields a superior result. As she told Restaurant Online in September 2025, she is “at heart, an innovator.” The remaining tabletop grills are now reserved for the downstairs private dining room, offering a touch of nostalgia for those who crave the interactive experience.
Beyond Barbecue: Modern Korean Cuisine
Koba 2.0 also ventures into more delicate, modern territory. The mul hwei, a vibrant bowl of raw fish (prawn, salmon, and white fish) topped with trout roe and an icy gochujang vinaigrette, is a prime example. It’s a dish designed for Instagram, and beautifully presented. Similarly, the dubu sotbab (tofu and vegetable rice pot) arrives gorgeously staged, with piles of wilted greens, sliced nori, green beans, and mushrooms artfully arranged on top of rice, inviting diners to mix and mingle the flavors.
In a neighborhood that has seen many restaurants come and go—Elena’s Etoile and the original Spaghetti House among them—Koba’s longevity is remarkable. As The Guardian noted in 2004, Charlotte Street has seen a constant churn of dining establishments. Lee’s willingness to adapt, to embrace change while staying true to the core principles of Korean cuisine, is undoubtedly a key factor in its success.
But let’s return to dessert. Korean restaurants aren’t traditionally known for their sweets, but Koba makes a compelling case for lingering over pudding. Beyond the iconic doughnut, the vast scoop of vanilla ice cream served with slices of sweet persimmon and a drenching of spiced, sticky syrup is a revelation.
Linda Lee’s decision to reinvent Koba after twenty years is a testament to her courage and vision. It’s a chutzpah that deserves to be applauded. Koba continues to offer a unique and satisfying dining experience, and its future looks bright. The restaurant remains open Tuesday through Sunday, offering lunch and dinner service. Expect to spend around £50 per person à la carte, with lunch sets available for approximately £12 and a five-course menu for £45, excluding drinks and service.
Koba’s next step will be captivating to watch. The restaurant is a fixture in London’s dining scene, and its continued success will depend on its ability to balance tradition with innovation. What are your thoughts on Koba’s transformation? Share your experiences in the comments below.
